The salt of île d'Oléron

During the heat wave, we've decided to cycle to the salty marshes not far from St Trojan. Our initial aim was the ones closer to Boyardville, but due to the heat, we've decided to chose an area closer to the hotel. I always buy salt of île de Ré when we are in Fouras, believing it is the best salt (and having difficulty to find it in the shops in Reims).  I've stocked up on our salt by buying 3 pots just before leaving to île d'Oléron, so no need to buy salt, but an interesting trip.



We were not aware that this is the salt museum. We've seen it from the cycling road and stopped for a photo - to realise shortly after that it is the arrival point of the cycling road where you can visit the museum and have a guided tour of the salt pans.

On our arrival at the salt museum, we've seen some boats and decided to row through the salty marshes.

There were two bridges to pass, quite complicated as the one who has to row cannot see behind him. Easy to see who is rowing and who is giving orders, isn't it?

Back at the starting point (it is a circle route) - you can see the colourful cabins behind that were converted into an excellent restaurant. Unfortunately they were closed for the day and when we phoned a few days later to book, they were fully booked. it will have to wait for another visit!

Below: some colourful boats at the starting point

Above: the museum and

Below: the real salt pans

 The area has an interesting history.  The salt industry commenced during the time of the Romans.  As this was mainly a Protestant area, the persecution of the Protestants severely influenced the salt industry during the 1600's.  In 1660 there were about 60 Protestant churches from Royan to Rochefort (significant if you think that by road it is a distance of about 50km) - and that was south of La Rochelle which was a very big Protestant stronghold.  The persecution caused the Protestants to leave the area.  The immigration was prohibited in 1687, due to the damage it started to cause the salt industry (and coffers of government), but the Protestants continued to flee, illegally.  This was unfortunately the beginning of the decline of the salt industry.  Salt from Spain and Portugal started to win field in the markets and by the 1980's, 300 years later, the salt industry died its final death in île d'Oléron.  Fortunatey the community revived it by the 1990's, as part of its heritage and today it is thriving again.  The salt worker renting the salt pans above from the community produces about 30 t of salt per year - enough to make a living of.  However, it is hard work, comprising working days of 10-14 hours/day.  The harvesting takes place during the summer months (3 months) and the rest of the time is used for cleaning and protecting the salt pans.

There are two types of salt - fleur de sel, which is the top layer of very fine salt, and the big salt, which contains all the minerals. The colour of the salt is influenced by the colour of the soil.

The islanders do not add salt to their food, as their vegetables grown on the island already contains quite a bit of salt.  Salicornia grows in these salty marshes (a salt resistant plant) and used by them in their salads. We could taste a small piece during the visit - not bad.

All along the west coast (and the rest of France, although to a lesser extent than here) you'll find the caramel sweets with salt in as well as pancakes with a caramel salt sauce, really good! We've got a recipe that day of our visit. As I haven't tried it yet, I cannot guarantee the success, but you have nothing to loose by trying it: (use a good quality salt though!)

Crème de caramel à la fleur de sel:

for an average size pot:

200g sugar

2 table spoons water

200 ml cream

20 g butter

a pinch of salt

Boil the cream in a casserole. Cut the butter in cubes. At the same time, in a casserole, bring the water and sugar to boil without stirring until it is an amber colour. Remove from the stove.

Stir the butter into the water/sugar mixture with a wooden spatula (not on the stove), add the fleur de sel, then add the boiling cream.  Bring all to boil and boil slowly for 2-3 min. Remove from the stove and then pour into pot. Leave to cool down before conserving it in the fridge (if not eating while hot...).

JL insists that I make us some pancakes now, to try the sauce on it, before giving the recipe to you, but his luck is out and you prepare it on own risk...!