Friday, March 16, 2012

Strasbourg - the European capital

But if you do not like to visit cities, please do not let the word 'capital' make you not visit Strasbourg.  It is a beautiful place and the town centre, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site, can be easily covered by foot. 
What makes Strasbourg even more beautiful, is its location along the left bank of the Rhine River, with attributes channeled through the city to the Rhine.
The choice of Strasbourg as European capital following WWII was made as a symbol of reconciliation between people and of the future of Europe.  Being on the border of France and Germany and being part of France, then part of Germany, then part of France, briefly again part of Germany during WWII and then part of France it sure is a mix of both cultures.
It houses the European Parliament, the European Court for Human Rights and the Council of Europe.  New York, Geneva and Strasbourg are the only cities in the world which are home to international institutions without being national capitals.
Strasbourg is famous for its Christmas market.  Unfortunately I haven't yet had the opportunity to visit Strasbourg during Noël.  But due to its fame, you can buy beautiful Christmas decorations at a dedicated shop throughout the year.
Perhaps less known to some people is the fact that the national hymn of France, the Marseillaise, originated in Strasbourg.  France was disrupted during the Revolution, the Bastille falling on 14 July 1789.  Peace didn't last long, as in 1792 France entered into war against Prussia and Austria (the European royalties very concerned that the movement in France can threaten their future). On 26 April, on demand of the mayor of Strasbourg, un chant pour l'armée du Rhin (a song for the Rhine army) was composed, that became the Marseillaise and also a symbol of the French Revolution.  A warrior song, one can understand that it is sang with so much passion along the rugby fields and other matches.  I am convinced that no other country sings their national hymn with so much passion and as encouragement during international sport matches!
One thing that will strike you visiting Strasbourg is the windows.  The roofs are comprising various windows and I am always amazed at that.
A famous landmark in Strasbourg is its cathedral.  Building commenced in 1015 and its tower (142 m high) was completed in 1439.  It is a feast of gothic art and its windows dates from the 12th & 14th-c.  You have to visit the astronomic clock inside the cathedral, with its mechanics dating from 1842.  Every day at 12h30 you can watch this masterpiece in action.  It displays the position of the sun and moon, solar and lunar eclipses, but the main attraction is the procession of the figures of Christ and the apostles, with the cock crowing three times (but he sounds a bit like having a flu, so might give you a good laugh).
The most beautiful quartier in the old town is La Petite France, an area along the river, with its colourful timberframed houses dating from the 16th and 17th-c, once inhabited by fishers, millers and tanners.  You'll still see the openings in the roofs of some buildings, to dry the hides (see the photo below).
The building on the left is a restaurant where we had a wonderful dinner
Another 'not to miss' is a boat cruise on the river and canal.
Below: the market square from where the boat cruise departs
It is an one hour cruise and takes you all the way to the European Parliament, which is a bit of a walk from the old town centre. 
Arte, a TV channel shared by France and Germany, has its studio closeby.  We love to watch movies on Arte, as they tend to broadcast interesting historical and cultural movies.  And I found it amusing that they have a giraffe in front of the building, having a bit of Africa in a French/German environment!
Alsace is a region, like many others in France, known for their regional cuisine.  One of their specialities are choucroute (sauerkraut), with cabbage growing in abundance in the region.  The grated cabbage is pickled in barrels and was once the only vegetable available in winter.
France is perhaps less known for producing beer than its neighbouring countries Belgium and Germany.  But they produce their fair share in Ardenne and Alsace, more than half of all beer consumed in France is produced in Alsace! The Alsatian brewers formed their guild already way back in 1268.  There are a few that you can visit if in the area, but in that case you'll have to spend more than a day in Strasbourg!
Other famous Alsacion food/snacks are the bretzel (pretzel), already an emblem of bakers in the 14th-c, knack - a sausage that you'll often find accompanying sauerkraut dishes and that owes its name to the sound that it makes when you bite it.
A very good dish, and you'll see the pottery dishes in which it is prepared in numerous pottery shops in Strasbourg and other Alsacian villages, is baeckeoffe (but be hungry when you order it in the restaurant!!).  It is a potato dished simmered in Alsatian white wine and includes pork, beef and lamb.  The farm workers used to prepare it before going to the field, letting it cook slowly, and by the time they arrive hungry at home, they had a delicious, filling meal waiting for them!
Flammekueche is another item you'll find on many menus, some restaurants are in fact only serving flammekueche.  It looks a bit like a pizza, being a thin (very thin) pastry covered with cream, onions and bacon.
One tend to think foie gras originated in the south west of France.  However, pâté de foie gras (goose liver pâté) was invented by a Strasbourg cook in ca 1780.  And when you become more familiar with French cuisine, you'll have to answer the question 'Which to you prefer, goose or duck liver? (oie or canard)
Kougelhopf is a cake, made from brioche dough which I love, that is baked in a tin that has a unique shape (like a ring tin, but higher and almost a spiral shape on the sides).
Each region in France has its particular wine that it is famous for. Alsace is no exception.  If you like white wines like gewurstraminer, muscat, pinot blanc, pinot gris, riesling - this is your region.  They also have a lovely pinot noir, although I think I prefer Bourgogne's pinot noir.

Other things in the region you should consider to include in a visit is the Northern Vosges Regional Nature Park, listed as a World Biosphere Reserve.  JL and I took a drive through the Vosges on our way back two years ago. One needs time, but it is well worth doing if you have a car.  It is beautiful to drive through the forests and then find a small village in a valley.  You can also follow their wine route, visiting the many winefarms in the region.  Or take a cruise up the Rhine river (which is still on my to do list, but looking at the beautiful pictures on the brochure I took two years ago, I really need to make a plan to do that sooner rather than later!). Colourful Alsace definitely merits a visit!

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