Wednesday, January 25, 2012

Madrid - another architectural highlight of the trip

The drive from Sao Rafael to Madrid was long, so we chose the quickest road according to the GPS, only stopping for a sandwich for lunch and to fill up the car.  Arriving in Madrid happened in the rush hour.  And with tunnels under the city Madame lost completely track of where she is, indicating to us that the road on which we are does not exist etc.  To make matters worse, the hotel I've booked was in the heart of the old town (great) which is a pedestrian area (not so great, not if you need to find parking close to the hotel).  By the time we've arrived to the hotel we were completely stressed out by driving around and around the hotel, before finally managing getting into the good road for the parking garage.  I will not recommend driving in the heart of Madrid to any one!  Take a taxi, the stress to the budget will cause less stress to your health than the driving!
Within an hour or two we've realised that we are not nausious because of the stress of the driving, but because of the sandwhich we had along the road.
Thus our one and only full day in Madrid saw two weak souls getting onto the hop on hop off bus, to sit there until the route had to recommence, then we got off. No hopping for us that day.  After a great tapas for lunch we've gathered our strength and walked a bit more in the old town before shopping for a suit and shoes for JL.  The Spanish size fits him perfectly, I was so happy we didn't have to adjust the seams (in SA he had difficulty to find a suit as he drowned in most of them).
Even though we were not in top condition in Madrid, we could appreciate the magnificent buildings they have, I couldn't stop staring and taking photographs (so I fear, like Salamanca and Oporto, this will be a long blog posting...).  You find art nouveau, art deco, baroque, neo-classical, Habsburg and a strong French influence.
According to Spanish standards Madrid is a young city, as the formal story of Madrid only started in 852 - 21 centuries after Càdiz and 6 centuries after Itàlica near Seville was constructed.  In 1561 Felipe II established a permanent capital in Madrid whereafter the population started to grow.  I was surprised when I've learnt that the French kings played a much bigger role in Spain than what I've know before.  In fact, today's Juan Carlos I is still from the Bourbon line (the same line than Louis XIV!)
Just next to the hotel we've already bumped into an old monastery
Above and below: the 17th-c Plaza Mayor.  It forms a beautiful rectangular square.  A lot happened here in the past - bull fights, trials during the inquisition, all watched by the crowds, often in presence of the king and queen.  Today you can relax at one of the many cafés or restaurants all around the square.
Above and below: the Puerta del Sol, one of the city's liveliest areas surrounded by shops and cafés (and gathering place for crowds on New Year's Eve when a grape is swallowed on each stroke of the clock, a tradition suppose to bring good luck for the rest of the year).  The square marks the sight ot he original eastern entrance to the Madrid.  The square is shaped like a half moon (not a square!) 
The green sign on the photo above is of the Spanish equivalent of the French Galerie Lafayette, where we found the suit and shoes for JL.
As in Portugal, the street names are very decorative:
Below: approaching the royal palace.  It was constructed during 26 years, spanning the reign of two Bourbon monarchs.  The original Moorish fort that was used as a palace before, burnt down in 1584, which suited the first Bourbon king well, as he desired a Versailles.  Today it is still used for state occasions, although the present king lives in a more modest palace outside Madrid.
You find musicians everywhere, but on both photos below you'll see musicians, not even far from each other!
We didn't know they have a change of guards as in London, but were in time to catch the last part of it, that drew quite a crowd
Below: the Nuestra Senora de la Almudena, Madrid's cathedral that was completed only in 1993 after construction started in 1879!  During the Spanish Civil War construction ceased completely.  The cathedral has an enormous dome and is situated opposite the royal palace.
The courtyard of the palace and fencing:
Above: the story of Peter walking on the water to Jesus, but a bit currupted - to go and fetch two keys from Jesus to control the entrace to heaven and hell, on the outside wall of the cathedral
Below: a better view of the cathedral (the dome is much bigger than what it looks like in the photo!)
As I have mentioned before - you found beautiful doors and entrances in Spain:
On our way back to Plaza Mayor we found a bar selling beers from many countries (except France and SA!!). I found the name 'kwak' amusing (maybe it should serve as a dr? and Judas being Iskariot?). The one at the bottom, Orval, is one we've tried in Belgium and is not bad (coming from a non-beer drinker!)
Below: the wrought iron market building was constructed in 1914-15.  It was a delightful surprise, as it is not only hosts stands where you can buy fresh meat, fish, fruits and vegetables, but also stands where you can buy different traditional snacks and/or a glass of wine, sit down and enjoy it.  I would have love to spend more time there, but as I've said we were a bit weak and after the short walk to the royal palace, we needed to sit down for something more substantial to regain our strength.
No, these are not people on the balconies, but dolls! (opposite the market)
Inside the market. We've tasted only one snack from the stand below, but it was very good
On the way to Plaza Mayor (the approach not as colourful as the inside of the square):
Above: I am always amazed in Europe when I see these narrow buildings, like the one next to the yellow building
During our hop on hop off I've noticed a tapas place visited by locals. Fortunately we found it again on foot.  A charming place with friendly service where we really had a great meal, comprising many different things to eat.
This wasn't even all that we ate. I took the photos before all arrived.  In fact, halfway through we've realised the lady forgot one item, but we were relieved, as we have realised it won't be able to finish that too!
Mmm, we were very satisfied by restaurante Anton! If ever you visit Madrid, go there! It is in the street leading from Plaza Mayor to the palace.
Above: this building on Puerta del Sol was originally the city's post office, but in 1847 became the headquarters for the Interior Minister.  During the Franco regime the police cells below the building were the site of many human rights abuses. And ironically, there is a plaque on the outside, commemorating those that were killed in the Madrid bombings when Spain wanted to support the US in Iraq. Innocent people tortured beneath, other innocent people celebrated on the outside wall.
Below: another photo of Puerta del Sol
Above: shopping for shoes, whereafter we had to sit down in a sunny corner of Plaza Mayor to recover (below).  The café receives the last sunshine of the day, while the others are covered in shade - so needles to say those ones were empty and this one packed! How is that for location location location?
The one next to us (2nd photo) was still in the sun on our arrival, but fortunately we've realised it will be in the shade by the time we've finished.  It was amazing to watch the mix of tourists and locals, drinking juice, wine, beer, coffee, snacking. A friendly relaxing atmosphere.
Some Mexicans making music on Puerta del Sol, one old Spanish omie even starting dancing in front of the crowd!
Above and below: Spain's central reserve bank, a beautiful building, and with elephant sculptures on it!

Above and below: next to the bank, reminding me a bit of Berlin

The bank again:
We had to walk down Gran Via with its many beautiful buildings. In the mid-1800 Madrid's middle class started destroying old houses and expanding the borders.  The city fathers saw the need to create a new thoroughfare, the Gran Via. This had to depart from haphazard development in the past and become a symbol of modern Madrid. The Gran Via was developed in three phases, initially each section having its own name before all was united under one name, Gran Via.  And I can tell you, in this case it def means big and fancy! You'll walk with your mouth open...
If you do not want the real puppy - these ones can go through for real!
Why a street name with a rhino?
Below: the hotel had a modern lift, but also an older version (working better than the new one). Unfortunately I only have a photo of the decorative gate, as the lift was on ground floor when I took the photo
We had breakfast in a delightful café, or rather chocolatier.  The second morning, as I felt better, I tried the churros, a fried dough pastry snack (also called a Spanish doughnut). Very good, although I think it would have been even better with hot chocolate (which smelled to die for, but I didn't want to go overboard, so sticked to coffee)

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